Feeling Alive

My cousin came down this morning and called me on his way in so I could wake my ass up and get my fins, rash guard, and mask/snorkel on.

I’m definitely still a bit under the weather and don’t have my full lung capacity so I wasn’t looking forward to how damn cold it was going to be.  However, once we were into the surf zone I was working on keeping my breathing steady/deep and timing the break so I wouldn’t get tossed into the whitewater like a towel in a washing machine, nothing else on my mind except for getting to the calmer swell on the backside of the set coming in.

I warmed up significantly once I hit the calmer area but didn’t have much time to slow down and relax as the longshore current was booking it up the coast, pushing us away from our intended destination.  We finally made it out to the end of the pier, avoiding the fisherman’s lines despite their idiotic casting RIGHT to the side of us (if I could sock that fisherman I would).  Once out there I took a few breaths to relax and look down all the pilings (looks cool as heck, like an amazing photograph in my mind), then we started making our way back (on the same side as the current was too strong and the swell would’ve also been pushing us into the pier on the other side.

By this time my toes were pretty well frozen and my fingers wouldn’t stay together as I watched them slide into the water with each freestyle stroke (through the clarity of my mask).  We made it back to the break zone and had to come back out a little further as a large set of waves came through, breaking subsequently further and further out.  Always fun to ride up the face of a wave as it prepares to catapult itself over, you suddenly become ~10 feet high and can survey the surfers dropping in further down the wave and the whole beach from a nice vantage point, narrowly missing being thrown over the precipice, feeling the spray from the wave as it passes by, smashing and thundering into the shallow water with the sand just beneath.

Once the set looked to be petering out, we almost caught a wave in, getting a short ride, but falling off the backside and settling into a determined semi-sprint, working our way past the breakzone so that no coming waves would break right on our backs.  Diving down and clinging onto the bottom as the waves from the lull continue to pass us by, plunging us into darkness for a few moments that always seem longer than they actually are.

Pulling the mask up, the snorkel out, and the fins off and walking across the sand feels amazing.  I spot a hot volleyball player I know talking to another girl (they must’ve been up on the sand early for training) and walk behind her, touching my near frozen hand to her neck and she squeals in surprise, then says hi as I barely turn to acknowledge and continue on to the showers.  The cool/cold water feeling really warm compared to my skin and the ocean temperature.  All the sand off, quick jog up to my place, feet a little tender from the salt water softening them, smacking against the rough asphalt.

Once inside the cold shower still feeling warm I slowly turn up the heat as I wash my body and make sure my gear is absolutely sand free.  Finally for the last 30 seconds I blast myself with the almost too hot water and relish my sinuses draining and the feeling of my soft bath rug under my feet as I towel off.  Getting dressed I feel the light tingle in my feet that means they are finally thawed completely.  I grab some change from my vase and walk a half a block over to the donut shop and grab a coffee, then join my cousin next door and give the counter girl some shit until our burritos are ready.  She smiles broadly and laughs as we grab our bag of food and turn to head out.  Perhaps I should work on that one.

The drive to work is no big thing at all as I sip my perfect coffee/creamer mix and my day is pleasant as I focus on getting my shit done (while munching on half my breakfast burrito) so that I can take a lunch break and catch up on my bills and billing my roommate which I’m way behind on.  Scheduled to do it all again Friday morning.  I’m really fortunate that my cousin enjoys doing this and drives all the way down to me and wakes my ass up.

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~ by aneroidocean on 07/31/2013.

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